If one city could be said to embody the essence of Italy it would be Florence, the first capital of the country when it was united. What makes Florence pivotal to the culture not just of Italy but of the whole of Europe, is the Renaissance. Every eminent artistic figure of this extraordinary era - Giotto, Masaccio, Bruneleschi, Alberti, Donatello, Botticelli, Da Vinci and Michelangelo - is represented here, in an unrivalled concentration of churches, galleries and museums, and the imprint of their work is visible at almost every turn. Florence can often seem too popular for its own good, with immense queues for the Uffizi and too many menu turistico restaurants. But if you time your visit carefully, don't rush around trying to see everything, and make a point of eating and drinking in our recommended establishments, you'll have a visit you'll never forget.

Florence DIRECTIONS has all you need to get the most out of your stay: the best-value hotels and restaurants, whatever your budget; the best restaurants and the coolest bars; the pick of the shops and of course detailed write-ups on all the artistic and architectural attractions ... in short, the best the city have to offer.

Browse the full-colour ideas section for a wealth of things to do, 24 hours a day if you like. Then flip to the places section to explore the city in detail, with every museum, gallery, restaurant, café, bar, club and shop located on our easy-to-use maps.

It's like having a Florentine friend plan your trip.